ALONG THE RIVER MAIN

Dreieck Wü-West E43, A3 (north: exit 102; south: exit 6 from E41, A81) /62/

Whether you fancy taking part in the wine harvest or just sitting in a Weinstube enjoying a good Franconian wine from out of its green, bulging Bocksbeutel-bottle, you will certainly have your fill in the area around Würzburg.

A useful tip: Drive on to the A3 just south of Würzburg and continue westwards along the river Main until you come to Wertheim. This little town is a veritable wine gem with its winding streets, beautiful market squares, handsome half-timbered houses and a castle up on a hill. It fits the bill neatly. Entering by the town gate, Maintor, we find ourselves at the very heart of the town and soon spot the pointed tower, Spitzer Turm. This is the perfect setting for a little wine-tasting, sampling the local wines while contemplating life in a bygone era.

The tower, once part of a fortified wall that encircled the town, was the lookout point and protection against enemies. Inside the tower there was once upon a time a prison, but no need to worry about that today, as we are let out into the street without question, fancy free and full of the good wine.

We have a look through the old Jewish quarters at Gerbergasse and walk out onto the market square with its beautiful Engels well. From here you can catch a glimpse of the old medieval fortress, peeping out between the rooftops, and across the square you have Münzgasse with its pretty cluster of half-timbered houses. You should take time to look in at the glass museum before the journey goes on, westwards along the winding river Main.

CHARMING LITTLE TOWNS BY THE RIVER

Many tempting little towns and villages are situated either side of the Main, beckoning you in for a visit. They all have something to offer, with their castle as crowning glory and their display of attractive, half-timbered houses and wine cellars. Miltenberg has to be the fairest of them all and claims to have the oldest inn in Germany, Zum Riesen, which the Swedish king Gustavus Adolphus is said to have visited in the 17th century. The town nestles between river and mountain and really only consists of one long street, Hauptstrasse. Here the half-timbered houses are standing cheek by jowl, proudly showing off their high gables onto the street. The town takes its name from the medieval castle Mildenburg, easily accessible from the picturesque market square.

A MAGNIFICENT BAROQUE CHURCH

Leaving the Main behind, we turn off southwards to Amorbach. The magnificent basilica Sancta Maria in bombastic Baroque style towers over this pretty town of nothing but half-timbered houses. In the 8th century an abbey was founded here and the abbey church has been much altered and extended through the centuries. It is interesting to see how, for example, the originally Romanesque façade has been “baroquified” beyond recognition. As for the interior of the church, the style is unquestionably pure Baroque with splendid ornamentations that are truly impressive. Especially noteworthy is the Baroque church organ, one of the finest in Europe. And if you are lucky enough to hear it being played, it will really make your day.

THE ROMAN BORDER AGAINST THE BARBARIANS

It is time to turn back to the motorway via Walldürn and Osterburken. Walldürn is a shrine with a pilgrim church, again Baroque in style, and well worth a visit. If you have the time, there is a six kilometre long path for ramblers that runs along the old Roman border called Limes. It once wound its way right across Germany, forming a front against the barbarians in the north. It is now laid out as a so-called educational path, which you can follow past old Roman fortresses and watchtowers. Information about fortifications in Roman times is provided on large signposts displayed along the route.